Thati Dhanari- Back in the heart of the Himalayas

 This is almost after a year that I was back in the heart of the Himalayas, which is like my second home.

I was headed to a village called Thati Dhanari, where a new Goat Village hideout ( my mother’s work) is coming up at the top of the mountain.  

The Thati village turned out to be a historical gem, full of old ruined heritage houses and two chaukhats/ panchpura, one of which even had  a deer head as a trophy. It was capital of the kingdom of the Panwar family , who once ruled the place. This place is also the family home of current Army Chief Bipin Rawat, who had visited the village sometime back..

 Now the trek to the hill top to the proposed Goat Village hideout. It was quite a steep uphill trek of about 4 km through bushes and forests. For about two hours we were climbing, climbing and only climbing. We climbed through an afternoon which surrendered to evening and finally it was quite dark by the time we reached the hideout, which is actually a chaani, a farm houses where people stay while they take their animals to graze during summer.

The place had no electricity and we were completely in the heart of the jungle, surrounded by the strange sounds of the night. Dinner was cooked on wood fire by the bhaiyas who had come with us from Thati village.

It was a magical experience listening to their stories of the land and jungle. 

After dinner, we retired to our room where sleeping bags had been laid out on the floor. In the night If I had to answer Nature's Call, I was forbidden to step out beyond the verandah as leopards are known to frequent the place almsot everyday.

True to their words, later in the light while I was cocooned in my sleeping bad I heard a lot of strange sounds,  One them could have that of the leopard, who knows!!!

Next morning, it was time to return from paradise to home, to studies with longing for the next trip to the mountains. I am enclosing my mother's site visit report below. It will give you an idea of the place very comprehensively. 

A delightful holiday at Dhangal

At Devidanda with Dig Uncle

In the last fortnight of December during the long awaited winter vacation, we visited Dhangal , a small village located on the edge of the Rajaji National Park. On the way we passed by Yamkeshwar ( Yam = God of death) temple located on a lonely cliff. Spirits are said to frequent it , especially after sundown and before sunrise. People come here only in groups. Maybe there is some truth in that- because both the times we passed by it, I could not spot a single soul going or returning from the temple. You too please study the picture below and see carefully if you spot someone.

Yamkeshwar temple

 Now, coming back to Dhangal. It was grown quite dark by the time we reached Bhrigukhal where 2 persons sent by Digambar Uncle ( our host in Dhangal) were waiting to guide us. The last 2 kms was a full rocky drive on a  mud track and through deserted farmlands. We crossed a small river bed and the ride ( on 4 wheels) ended besides a deserted building. The last half km to the house was an uphill trek on a stony path, through bushes (which seemed like jungles in the dark) and glow of fireflies ( which seemed like animal eyes). We walked quietly and heaved a sigh of relief as we reached Digambar Uncle's house.

Dhangal is a very small village with a handful of houses. Digambar Uncle's family owns the most of them. Behind the village, a densely forested hill rises steeply.  All the houses are laid in one long row with a courtyard in front ( see the pic below) where leopards at times prowl in the dead of night. The toilet is in the courtyard, so going there to answer nature's call deep in the night could be quite an adventure. My mother's students have been staying in the house for some days ( for doing measure drawing) and I asked them if any of them had seen anything at night, I was deeply disappointed when all of said NO.

Lunch in the sunny courtyard 

Dig Uncle has a very charming personality and I enjoyed his company  a lot.  I spent major part of the evening talking and listening to him. That night after dinner there was a camp fire with local songs and a bit of drums. A local person sang the songs while I played the drums and later joined Vikas  bhaiya in dance. I think we created enough ruckus to scare away the leopards for that night.

 Next morning Dig Uncle took all of us to Devidanda,  a temple located on a hill top . I walked up with Dig Uncle, conversing with him all the way up. My mother''s four students too were on their own, enjoying and taking pictures. I sat with Dig Uncle on the hill top, soaking in the splendid views and enjoying his company immensely.

After returning from Devi Danda, it was time to pack up and head home once again with golden memories of the last two days well spent in the company of Dig Uncle. Oh yes, he also gave me 500 rupees as a parting gift, just like my own uncles. I am looking forward to meeting him again.

To Devi Danda with Dig Uncle